Flatanger Update

It's hot here in Flatanger at the moment! Nonetheless, it doesn't seem to be stopping anyone. Seb is getting close on Move (9b/+). Almost every member of the French family I've been climbing with has sent their projects (allez François!), and I've been super pleased with myself as well.

Since the last post I had been trying Nordic Flower L1 (8b/+). I started by jumaring up and making sure I could confidently link the second half. This is essentially a mega pumpy 7c roof traverse, which comes after a no hands kneebar rest. It is possible to fall here on point, but it would be absolutely devastating.

First kneebar after the cruxy first 6 bolts

Once I had linked this, I started making redpoint attempts. Once you understand the movement and the rests, the route kind of just boils down to linking the first 6 bolts (to the first kneebar). Unfortunately there is a hold at the 4th bolt which always seeps, and so day after day, I would arrive here and slip out. I realized the route was possible when I slipped out at the 4th bolt, then pulled back on and took it all the way to the finish.

I took a forced 2 rest days due to a gum infection, and when I returned to nordic, the hold at the 4th bolt was only slightly damp, rather than the usual waterfall! After warming up, I was able to send Nordic Flower L1 first try of the day! I counted 10 kneebars/scums in total! And I have no clue the actual number, but it felt like I was on the wall for 45-60 minutes? I remember the intimidation I felt every time I sat at the ledge on Flour Power at the RRG, thinking there is so much pump and steep climbing to go. This route however, takes it up a notch. Every time you get to a kneebar, you realize how much further you still have to go. It is a test of patience to make sure you stay in each rest long enough to make it to the next!

With Nordic Flower done, I decided not to jump into anything too big immediately. I tried some more onsighting and flashing. I was super pleased to onsight the classic Berntsenbanden (7c), which I'm told is the hardest of the 7c routes on the wall. The route starts with a harder than expected 6c to a ledge. From here, you do some cool 3D climbing with some insecure smears and dropknees, until finally sprinting up a slippery stem and layback crack. There's an 8a extension I'm keen to try as well, as I've heard the 7c part is harder than anything on the extension!

I made an onsight attempt at the classic Brunhilde L1, the king of arbitrary classics. You jumar 8 meters or so to a jug, then finish quite randomly 20 meters later. Fortunately, the movement is incredible. Big moves, on big holds, with a bouldery style between rests. I hesitated too much and fell at the second bolt. After I lowered, Seb and I sprinted down to watch the world cup final. After the french victory, one beer, and many chips, we went back up and I sent the route quite smoothly. If it weren't for the inconvenient jumar start, this route could even make it onto the warmup circuit.

François on Brunhilde L1

While I was trying nordic flower, I was also intermittently trying a route directly right of it, called Dvergtrollet (Dwarf Troll). This is a very short and very bouldery 8a+, and the story goes that Magnus Mitdbo did the first ascent onsight!

The first 3 moves are some of the hardest. I would say the route breaks down as a 12 move 7B+ into an awkward and poor rest in a corner, into another 13 move 7B+. The first one is harder, but you are fresh right off the ground. The next one is mega powerful , underclinging on some of the worst foot smears I have ever used! After these 15 moves, you get a shake and exit on some pumpy 7a+ terrain, finishing just before the line would intersect nordic flower.

Damien on Dvergtrollet 8a+, about to begin the second crux

This line was an anomaly for the area. It was very sharp, demanded raw strength and power, and had little/no kneebars. It did not climb the best, but because I knew I could do it, I couldn't walk away from it.

Next I would like to shop around for a big project. I have 3 months to spend here, and I'm curious to learn what I can do if I devote myself to a route for such an amount of time. Seb has instilled quite a lot of confidence in me, encouraging me to try routes I would never have considered possible otherwise. Stay tuned!