Introduction to Me

This is (ideally) going to be an all-things-climbing blawg, and I think it's only fair to provide an introduction to the guy behind the scenes. The guy wacky enough to spell blog blawg and to create a representative site of who he is as a person and name it as a sporty knock off of a sweet potato, which is already a knock off of a real potato. Knock-off squared: BOOM. First point: I'm a math major. Have I lost you yet?

If I haven't lost you, here's a completely unrelated photo of me.
Lost now?

My name is Lohan Lizin. I became a climber 3 years ago. I climbed and climbed. Since then I've learned what a crimp is, I've learned not to drop your rope when you clean a route (by dropping one), I've learned GriGri's are not auto-locking (by being dropped), I've learned that soft catches matter (by spraining my ankle), I've learned to mind sharp rock (by core-shooting my rope...often), I've learned to eat well (after a rapid decline in health and motivation ensuing a week of Chef Boyardee), I've learned to move during the exhale and tie the knot long when I'm in a squeeze chimney (by getting stuck), and from it all I've learned to always be ready to learn.

Always learning. I've sent 5.13 in
fewer tries than this 10a squeeze took me

And here I am - I've taken lessons from multiple humbling experiences on El Capitan, as well as from the 54th fall on my 8 month project. I live in Georgia, but home is beyond that. Home is the belay seat below the Concave. Home is napping on my beaten crash pad underneath Sherman Photo roof. Home is taking my tape gloves off at Camp 4. Home is playing Cornhole with Del at the Obed.

Home underneath Separate Reality (12a), Yosemite Valley

I wouldn't call myself goal oriented, but more dream-oriented. There are things I dream of doing but I don't necessarily work towards that specific thing, like you would a goal. I do what I love and that usually happens to help me along towards realizing my dream. I love climbing and particularly I love experiencing places through climbing. I get bored taking walks and pictures. I need movement and struggle and beauty all in one.

Movement and struggle, in a beautiful setting.
Perfection in a route - Spellbound (12d)

I believe that's what draws me to projecting. My absolute favorite aspect of climbing is the ability to devote yourself completely to a line that inspires you enough to make you a different person - a better climber. Not necessarily a stronger climber, though that is often the case, but a better climber. The subtleties you learn in projecting can never be understood by anyone but yourself.

On a final note, take my most recent, and most involved, project that I have ever committed myself to. Unshackled is a 13b sport route that takes the most striking line up the gorgeous left side of the namesake Unshackled Wall. It IS the best route I have been on in the region, setting the standard for the triple crown of aesthetics, movement, and rock quality. It always sports fixed draws and since the first time I laid eyes on it about 2 years ago, I had to try. I fumbled my way to the second bolt. Months later, I came back again, barely scraping my way to the 4th bolt (12a to this point). I was captivated by this line. Finally, over a year since first trying it, I dogged my way all the way to the final crux (6th and last bolt).

Just below the last bolt on Unshackled (13b)

I was losing my mind trying to find beta for the last sequence - searching for videos, photos, comments, anything! Finally I heard rumor of a right sequence (I had followed chalk out left before). I went back out, and for the first time made it to the chains, having proudly done every move on the route.

This is the moment I went all in.

Every move was complete. Let the linking begin.

Here's the breakdown (warning black-box seekers):

An incredible 12a sequence to the 3rd bolt, with powerful moves on friendly holds down low, and a final delicate sequence which relies on flexibility (particularly your left leg). Easy moves lead to a kneebar rest which separates you from DA BIDNESS.

Once you're collected, a few easy moves lead you to the 4th bolt and another unnecessary kneescum rest. Now, you have 2 bolts separating you from the anchors. Three V5 boulder problems keep you from claiming your 1000 points.

First, a V5 revolving around an awful R hand sidepull/undercling, and finishing with a precise tension-y stab to a slopey, but deep, slot. Clip, set feet, and make another frustratingly precise deadpoint to a good R hand crimp slot (move shown in the last picture). I stuck this move less than 5 times from the ground before sending, despite it being the easiest of the boulder problems.

From here, you move up to a magical pinch. Truly. It's not unique in how you hold it or use it or anything. It's magical because it has always felt better to me when I'm pumped. When I was dogging or warming up/brushing holds, it always felt disgusting! But the few times I reached this pinch on point, it bit back. It held me as much as I held it. It was like the route had finally nodded its head to my hard work and was allowing me a chance to pass.

From this pinch, you have one final v5 that is brutally hard with a pump. You are, however, rewarded with the most spectacular finish, as you clip the anchor and top out the entire wall.

Two moves from the top of the wall, in the final V5 sequence.
Photo from my actual redpoint.

I'm a bolt clipper, a pad stacker, a gear plugger, a nerd, a clown, a climber. In any order really. Perpetually psyched on climbing, let some more adventures begin!